,m Sean´s Shenanigans: Huayna Potosi Climb

Wednesday, July 06, 2005

Huayna Potosi Climb

Arrived back yesterday from the 3 day Huyana Potosi "Expedition". On the first day we practiced ice climbing on a glacier which was very good fun.

Day 2 was a relatively simple day. It was a three hour walk with all out gear up to camp which consisted of a winswept tin hut at 5200m.

Ten of us had to sleep there (4 of us, 5 brazilians and an English guy). With a rise time of midnight, we all went to bed at 5:30pm - I don´t think i´ve ever gone to bed so early without the interference of alcohol. With the altitude we were at, I didn´t manage to sleep a wink.

Got out alarm call at midnight and between food and getting dressed it took us over an hour to get fully ready.

The four of us started the assent with 2 guides. After half an hour on rocks, we hit the snow and ice at about 2am. After fixing on our crampons we continued out assent - slowly. After a very tough climb myself and Vinnie reached the top at about 7:15am. The last technical part was a 250m steep climb to the summit. It was incredibly tough and I pretty much wasted all my energy getting there. Peter and Dave had to turn back just before this due to altitude sickness and lack of oxygen respectively (the latter due no doubt to an excessive smoking habit).

The decent will pretty tough, my body just had no energy left. It took about 3 hours to get back to the camp where we had to load up all our gear and carry it a further 2 hours down to the Refugio.

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